Kenya stands at a critical crossroads in the journey toward industrial revival.
According to Trade Cabinet Secretary Lee Kinyanjui, the country cannot simultaneously sustain a thriving local textile industry and remain one of the world’s largest importers of second-hand clothes.
This dual reality, he noted, creates a policy contradiction that continues to hold back Kenya’s manufacturing potential.
Speaking during the unveiling of the Cotton, Textile, and Apparel (CTA) Policy, the CS emphasized that Kenya’s renewed focus on local manufacturing is both a national priority and a response to shifting global trade dynamics.
“The current global trade realignment calls for us to be inward-looking to see what we must do to build resilience and promote local value addition,” said Kinyanjui.
Turning Global Shifts into Local Opportunity
With global trade landscapes evolving partly due to tariff changes and shifting supply chains, Kenya has a timely opportunity to reimagine its industrial base.
The CTA Policy is designed to do exactly that: revitalize the cotton value chain, support farmers, encourage textile manufacturing, and position Kenya as a regional hub for apparel production.
The policy seeks to breathe life into an industry once considered one of Kenya’s economic cornerstones.
By addressing challenges such as outdated ginneries and limited investment in textile infrastructure.
In addition to unsustainable imports, the government hopes to create a supportive environment that connects farmers, manufacturers, and designers through an integrated system.
Ministry of Investment, Trade and Industry Cabinet Secretary Lee Kinyanjui with Principal Secretary in the State Department for Industry Juma Mukhwana during the Development of National Cotton, Textileand Apparel Policy Media Breakfast meeting on April 15,2025.
Industry Principal Secretary Juma Mukhwana noted that only four of the country’s 100 ginneries remain operational.
Therefore, underscoring the need for accelerated rehabilitation efforts. “Within the coming year, we plan to revive at least 10 more ginneries,” he said, adding that Kenya’s stagnation stems partly from the constant inflow of used clothes that crowds out locally made products.
The Hidden Cost of Second-Hand Imports
Kenya imported record volumes of mitumba (second-hand clothes) in 2023, placing it among the top global importers.
While the trade has provided affordable clothing and informal sector jobs, experts say it also undermines efforts to develop a competitive textile ecosystem.
Kinyanjui described the situation as “a need for reset,” calling for stronger intra-African trade and sustainable industrial practices.
He noted that true economic progress will come from rebuilding local capacity, not depending on recycled imports from other economies.
Interestingly, much of the mitumba sold locally is originally made in Kenya and exported abroad, only to be re-imported later as second-hand garments.
This cycle, the CS observed, reflects lost opportunities for value addition, brand growth, and job creation within Kenya.
Reviving the Value Chain: A Shared Responsibility
AfriTrade Consulting Group, through its leadership in trade advisory and policy implementation, has been a key stakeholder in supporting Kenya’s industrial transformation agenda.
According to Caroline Saroni, Lead Consultant at AfriTrade Consulting Group, the CTA Policy presents “an opportunity to broaden Kenya’s economic base while advancing sustainability, innovation, and employment creation.”
“The policy aims to increase cotton production, boost value addition, create employment and skills development, enhance market access, and promote research and innovation across the textile value chain,” she noted.
AfriTrade’s work in investor facilitation, capacity development, and policy advisory aligns closely with the goals of the CTA framework.
By connecting local industry players with regional and international markets, AfriTrade continues to champion a self-sustaining, export-ready textile industry that benefits farmers, women, and youth.
From Mitumba to Made-in-Kenya
Reviving Kenya’s textile sector will demand more than policy; it requires political goodwill, private investment, and consumer mindset change.
As Kenya begins to implement the CTA policy, collaboration between the public and private sectors will be vital to create sustainable supply chains that compete globally and empower local communities.
The call is clear: it’s time to move from Mitumba Nation to a Made-in-Kenya Economy.
